Kook: what surfing taught me about love, life, and catching the perfect wave
(Book)
Documents the author's year-long surfing journey from Southern California down the coast of Mexico, where he witnessed the beauty and power of the natural world associated with the surfing sub-culture.
"With grit, poetry, and humor, acclaimed author Peter Heller recounts his remarkable journey of discovery--of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave--that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder--in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing, the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastlines he visits. As Heller plumbs the workings of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea."--Back cover.
Notes
Heller, P. (2010). Kook: what surfing taught me about love, life, and catching the perfect wave. 1st Free Press trade pbk. ed. New York, Free Press.
Chicago / Turabian - Author Date Citation (style guide)Heller, Peter, 1959-. 2010. Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave. New York, Free Press.
Chicago / Turabian - Humanities Citation (style guide)Heller, Peter, 1959-, Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave. New York, Free Press, 2010.
MLA Citation (style guide)Heller, Peter. Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave. 1st Free Press trade pbk. ed. New York, Free Press, 2010.
Record Information
Last Sierra Extract Time | Apr 23, 2024 04:13:45 PM |
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Last File Modification Time | Apr 23, 2024 04:14:05 PM |
Last Grouped Work Modification Time | May 03, 2024 08:49:34 PM |
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